Circus Acts on a SeeSaw

Central Vietnam: Hoi An

"Midieval-looking Hoi An was once Vietnam's most cosmopolitan port. Today the good times have returned and this beautiful, ancient town is bursting with gourmet Vietnamese restaurants, hip bars and cafes, quirky boutiques and expert tailors."

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The first thing we did in Hoi An was a street food tour. It was led by a gregarious Australian transplant named Neville (fitting I think). We stopped at more than forty authentic Vietnamese street food stands. It was feast for the senses as we walked through the markets and tasted food from stalls we would never think of going to on our own. He dispelled all the myths about street food in foreign countries, including everyone's biggest concern: cleanliness. Neville explained that the dirtier the floor, i.e. how much food/trash is on the ground, the better. This is a sign that the Vietnamese really like the "restaurant." He tried to emphasize that these people are no different that we are; they are just as concerned about what they put in their mouths as the Westerners.

That afternoon we walked through the downtown streets of Hoi An. One of the things the town is known for is the tailors, and there are hundreds of them. It was a good thing we got some recommendations from Neville, or we wouldn't know where to start. I ended up having a dress made. In one store, there were a few women set up in the front making paper lanterns. One was taking strips of paper and pressing them with an iron while another was placing them over the thin wooden frame of a lantern. I'm not sure what attached the paper to the frame, but my guess would be some kind of hot glue. It was fun to watch the process. 

Cambodia: Angkor Wat Day 2

The second day we traveled a bit farther outside the primary Angkor Wat complex. Our driver Serei picked us up and drove us through the Cambodian countryside; along the way we passed through a number of villages. The most striking sight was the level of poverty that ran rampant and was blatantly apparent everywhere I looked. Almost all the homes were thatched-roof huts set on stilts at least 10 feet high. There were open markets all along the roadside filled with exotic fruits, clothing, and other goods. The Cambodian countryside was beautiful; palm trees, rice fields, as well as mango, dragon fruit, and sugar cane farms blanketed the landscape.

The first two temples we went to were similar to the ones we visited the day before, but the third was the most interesting and intriguing of them all. Boeng Maelea is almost completely unrestored and has crumbled in many places. Trees and plants have grown up and around the structure. We got there late in the day which I soon realized would be the best time of day to be there. The light on the temple was stunning. On one side of the complex three different trees' roots were climbing down from the top, curling over the sides and down to the ground like spiderwebs.

A different kind of reminder of Cambodia's past was also present at this site. On the way into the temple, a sign was posted about the number of land mines found and cleared in and around the site. For a moment it was very disturbing to think about the idea of coming across something like that. The bleak past and struggling present of Cambodia surfaced again on the way back to the hotel when Serei began to talk about his family and the social infrastructure of the country. His father was killed by the Khmer Rouge because he was an educated French teacher. I believe there were other family members killed, but his father was the only one he talked about in detail.

The government has no money and is not generating revenue because Cambodia has so many debts to pay off. There was road work being done on the way to the temples, which Serei said the funding came from Korea. Most of the country's electricity is supplied by Thailand and 80% of the tourism profits from Angkor Wat go to Vietnam to pay off debts. There is an enormous amount of foreign aid in all areas going into Cambodia because they are unable to support themselves.

Cambodia: Angkor Wat Day 1

"Angkor, in Cambodia’s northern province of Siem Reap, is one of the most important archaeological sites of Southeast Asia. It extends over approximately 400 square kilometres and consists of scores of temples, hydraulic structures (basins, dykes, reservoirs, canals) as well as communication routes. For several centuries Angkor, was the centre of the Khmer Kingdom. With impressive monuments, several different ancient urban plans and large water reservoirs, the site is a unique concentration of features testifying to an exceptional civilization. Temples such as Angkor Wat, the Bayon, Preah Khan and Ta Prohm, exemplars of Khmer architecture, are closely linked to their geographical context as well as being imbued with symbolic significance. The architecture and layout of the successive capitals bear witness to a high level of social order and ranking within the Khmer Empire. Angkor is therefore a major site exemplifying cultural, religious and symbolic values, as well as containing high architectural, archaeological and artistic significance."

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We got up at four in the morning the first day to go to Angkor Wat and watch the sunrise. The road there was filled with tuk tuks, bicycles, and cars headed exactly where we were going. It was like rush-hour at 5:30 in the morning. We arrived at the site around six, so we still had an hour to wait. On the opposite side of the outermost stone perimeter a large cobble-stone walkway juts straight through an expansive courtyard toward the main temple. A number of food stands lined the edges of the wall and many of the operator's assistants came around numerous times trying desperately to coax us into buying coffee, tea or pastries. They gave themselves Western names like "007" and "Star Wars" to make it easy for people to remember them. There were others who bombarded us with guidebooks, postcards, scarves, and other clothing items. When the sunrise finally came, it was certainly beautiful but it wasn't as dramatic as it sounded.

I opted to explore the temple on my own. It was nice to be there early in the morning because it provided the perfect opportunity and setting to be alone with my thoughts while wandering through a place where so much symbolism and sacredness is present. When I reached the center of the temple, the place where the Buddha supposedly sat, I could almost sense the "cosmic" energy as I imagined sitting there with no one around and being perfectly still. Intricate patterns and depictions of the Hindu gods and their battles were carved into the stone on every surface.    

The next set of temples was the Angkor Thom complex which was just as jaw-dropping as the Angkor Wat. This temple had similarly carved pediments depicting gods and battles. After we got through the temple I was drawn to the sound of music and as I walked out of the temple, I noticed a group of monks sitting under a tree playing what I assumed to be traditional Khmer music. One of the instruments was a smaller version of the roneat ek, a boat-shaped instrument that sounds like a marimba. I became greatly intrigued by it the night before at the hotel where a woman was playing one the lobby. Throughout the day I was constantly reminded of the power of human creativity.

North Vietnam: Sapa II

As well as being an astute business man, our hotel owner, Nam, expressed the type of energy creative types know well. The wheels of the mind are always turning with curiosity about the world while constantly being inspired, questioning everything, inventing, and creating. He built the Thai Binh Sapa Hotel entirely by himself on a piece of land his family received from the government. He also helps his parents manage a bed and breakfast, operated in the same space where they live.

The day after our trek, Nam scheduled a tour to go to the top of Mt. Fansipan, the highest mountain in Vietnam. It was cloudy in the morning, so we weren't sure whether or not we were going to go. The driver of our van had called someone at the top who said it was clear, and we took our chances. The weather was mixture of clouds and sun throughout the entire hike. We hiked on a trail through tropical mountain forest to the "Love Waterfall." There were stone staircases and walkways that led all the way through the river canyon. For a while I thought about the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and the idea of hiking a similar trail for much longer.

After our hike, we went to Nam's other hotel, the Sapa Garden Bed and Breakfast, where his mother had prepared ingredients for a large hot pot. She had four different kinds of meat: beef, chicken, fish, and tofu, all of which got cooked sequentially. Eventually everything was in the pot at the same time. The presentation of the uncooked meat was beautiful: each sat on its own plate with what looked like either scallions or lemongrass tied in candy-shaped balls. Sliced pineapple and tomato lined the rim of each plate. Nam turned from inn keeper to waiter/sous chef as he added each dish to the hot pot and kept an eye on it while he continually served us more food, beer and water. After lunch we spent some time wandering around the property and the beautiful gardens he had created. There were fruit trees and various exotic flowering plants everywhere. Dozens of orchids hung from overhead canopy that looked like someone could get married in. None of the plants were blooming but I imagined what it would look like being engulfed in a sea of color. It was no doubt a very special afternoon. We found out later that he doesn't host hotel guests like that very often.

North Vietnam: Sapa I

"The French called the ethnic minorities Montagnards ('highlanders' or 'mountain people'). Ethnic Vietnamese referred to them as 'moi', a somewhat derogatory word meaning savages, which reflects the all too common attitudes among many lowland Vietnamese. The current government prefers the term 'national minorities', of which there are more than 15 different groups. The most colorful of these minorities live in the far north of Vietnam, carving an existence out of the lush mountain landscape along the Chinese and Lao borders... each hill tribe has its own language, customs, mode of dress and spiritual beliefs. Language and culture constitute the borders of their world."
- Lonely Planet

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We left Hanoi on an overnight train headed to Lao Cai, the town from which we would then go on to Sapa. Our 6x6ft cabin had two bunk beds with mattresses no thicker than three inches. Not much different from camping, really, but "soft" ground is better than a piece of plywood. I finally drifted off into a half-sleep out of sheer necessity. The train swayed back and forth and creaked and groaned almost constantly, whining as though it was too old to be making such a journey. It stopped several times for brief periods of time and in my groggy state there were a few instances when I thought we had missed our stop. There was no announcement to confirm where we were going, how far we had gone, how much longer we had to go, or that we were even on the right train. Nor was there an announcement that we had reached our destination. It was by pure intuition that we didn't go all the way to China. The one I take to work seems like a luxury; and it's just a passenger train.

We arrived in Lao Cai at 4:45 in the morning. Once our friends arrived, we met our driver and headed for Sapa. It took us an hour on a windy, mountainous road. The surroundings were almost surreal because we were driving as the sun came up, but it was cloudy, misty and rainy. I couldn't see anything past the edge of the road. Sapa is only 4,500 ft above sea level, but we came from sea-level so it seemed much higher. The town lies in the northernmost part of Vietnam, almost to the Chinese border. It is known for being a huge tourist destination and it shows. The ethnic people in town know only a few phrases in English; the most common question seemed to be "Hello madam, where you from?" quickly followed by "Buy something?" If you pay attention at all you are immediately followed until you shoo them off or buy something for the simple sake of getting rid of them. But, as soon as you purchase something from one, a whole herd of others follow you insisting that you buy something from them too. The morality of the situation is difficult; as annoying as it is, selling their handicrafts to the tourists may be the only source of income for their family and just like everyone, they too need a way to sustain themselves and keep their culture and traditions alive.

The second day, we met our guide Ban (last one on the right) to take us trekking through some of the Black Hmong villages outside Sapa. As we began the hike, a few other village women joined our group and walked with us for at least half the way. They did not try to sell us anything until they were ready to go home. One of the women, who introduced herself as Ma (second from the left), helped me through some of the more difficult spots in the trail so I bought something from her. We walked through three villages over the course of nine miles. It was very interesting to see what their daily lives are like outside Sapa when they aren't shopping or trying to sell things. Their lives revolve around planting and harvesting the family's rice fields, tending animals, and making handicrafts and clothing to sell. One of the things I love about traveling is experiencing other people's way of life; these experiences no doubt put our own lives into perspective. Listening to Ban talk about herself was fascinating. She spoke incredibly good English, but she cannot read or write the language. She also knows very little Vietnamese, just enough to be able to speak to the necessary people. Throughout the trip she was speaking to the villagers in the native Hmong tongue. Ban had never been to school, but she was incredibly intelligent. She talked at great length about her peoples' customs and Vietnamese society. Being the oldest in her family, she was expected to stay in the village and take care of the family. She had an arranged marriage and eventually had her own children. At 27 she already has three, ranging in age from 2 to 10.

Most of the villagers were wearing their traditional dress for the Tet. They make new costumes every year that take weeks to finish. If we had gone at any other time we wouldn't have had the opportunity to see them this way. The road back to town was again filled with an incredible number of people walking, riding motorbikes, and driving cars, dodging one another and somehow navigating their way through the maze.

North Vietnam: Hanoi

We flew to Hanoi the morning of February 12th and after dropping our bags at the hotel (we rented a room for the sole purpose of storing because we were leaving again that evening), we went walking around the old quarter. Our self-guided walking tour took us through the surrounding streets and the lake that sits in the middle of the city. There is a lot of French colonial influence, especially in the architecture around this district. The presence of the Communist flag was almost overwhelming; they are displayed outside nearly every shop and restaurant like an overhanging sea of red littered with gold stars. Before leaving we happened upon a street food stand highly recommended on Trip Advisor (our second travel guide, next to my brother). The six of us were seated on PlaySkool-style chairs at a PlaySkool-style table in the middle of the sidewalk and served Pho Ba (beef stew) from the "kitchen" across the street. I can't remember eating in a more entertaining spot. Anywhere else it would have appeared as if we were in the way, sitting at a "restaurant" in the middle of the sidewalk, but in Asia this is normal and these types of eateries are all over the place.

We went through Hanoi twice. On a similar schedule the second time, we only had a few hours to sightsee. Since before leaving on the trip, I had been interested in seeing the Temple of Literature, also known as a temple dedicated to Confucius. The compound includes Vietnam's first national university, the Imperial Academy, which focused on educating writers, poets, and other artists. Unfortunately, during Tet, the temple turned into a huge tourist trap. Hundreds of people struggled to move around in a giant mob, all the while stopping to pose for endless photos. I did not have a chance to really absorb its meaning because I was too busy trying to navigate my way through the throngs of people.

Hanoi was the first real immersion into daily life in Vietnam. The traffic was fun to watch all across the country. I would guess it is a similar scene in other parts of Asia. There seem to be no rules when it comes to driving or parking. It's as if every intersection is a 4-way yield sign. Motorbikes seem to outnumber cars by the hundreds and there are anywhere from one to six people on them. In addition to the passengers, whether it be one or six, the bikes could be laden with goods from the markets, appliances, construction materials, furniture, or almost anything else that comes to mind. Yet somehow, everyone seems to merge together seamlessly.